Chania Town ~ Χανιά

Χανιά can be divided into the old town and the new town. The old town surrounds the harbour and is typically Venetian, with plenty of the Turkish architecture and townscape still visible in the narrow streets and baths.

Most of the interests to travellers are in the old town, however Chania town has a thriving new area which should not be forgotten.

Walking Around Chania

As you will find, everyone is very friendly, so make sure you get a map of the old town from your hotel, as the streets are narrow and twisted and exploring them is very tempting.

The limani harbour, is ringed by cafés and restaurants and here the touts can be a little too emphatic. We will show you some great places away from the hubbub. As you walk around the harbour, you will see some of the dramatic architectural changes, revealing the history of the town.

The Fort Firca at the entrance to the harbour is a Venetian structure, whereas opposite, the Mosque of the Janissaries was built during the Turkish occupation of the island.

If you want to check your email right down by the water’s edge, with a lovely fresh coffee, go to Notos Internet Café.

From here you can catch a little ferry over to the Fortezza. This saves you the walk all around the whole harbour, and is lovely in the evening as you can sit on the top of the fortezza for a drink and watch the sun go down over the harbour. Bliss.

If you continue around to the eastern harbour, where the modern Chania Marina is found, you are entering the area of the old town called Splantzia, a Turkish quarter.

Here lies an important Minoan site, only recently discovered, of Ancient Kydonia, the site was dug in 1964 by Greek and Swedish archaeologists and has become an significant find, with many artefacts now stored in the Chania museum, these include linear A clay tablet from 1450 BC and Linear B clay tablets from 1300 BC, clay seals and the unique master impression seal from 1500s BC.

The Church of St Nicholas in Spantzia is an interesting mix of Christian and eastern architecture. The church was converted into a mosque in 1645 by the Turks, and a minaret with two balconies was built on one side of the church. It has recently been restored.

We find art and crafts, jewellery and gifts of top quality, everywhere here in the little streets back from the harbour, such as Odos Zambeliou.

At Kondilaki 45 is the lovely shop 'To Meli' with fresh Cretan honey, herb honey, olive oil products, ceramics, glass and crafted Cretan gifts and delicious organic products (below).

The beautiful Casa Delfino hotel is a feature of the old town and even if you don’t stay there – it is very worthwhile visiting the courtyard, especially in the evening, for a quiet drink to soak up the atmosphere. This restored mansion was once a private home.

One street back from the harbour is the Hotel Helena, follow around the tiny narrow streets near Odos Theotokopoulou and ask directions to get there. We found a lovely room, wonderful host and great view of the harbour at reasonable prices.

Cafés and Tavernas

Within a 16th century Turkish bathhouse nestled into the narrow Venetian laneway of Odós Zambelioú, sits the charismatic taverna Tamam.

Unassuming from the outside, you are surprised as stepping within is like entering into a wonder world.

Dimly lit, with a tantalising aroma, you step into the top level of a multi-terraced bath house, fitted with wooden tables and traditional Greek style rafia chairs.

Attention has been paid to the smart restoration to maintain plenty of atmosphere in the old baths. The service is exceptional; subdued, not invasive. The menu, founded on authentic village cuisine, boasts simple traditional Greek dishes, prepared to culinary delight. We love to order a selection of mesedes, and they are mouth-watering. This food rivals my grandmother’s cooking, and in many cases surpasses it.

Couples or small groups wanting a charismatic setting for hearty conversations over truly satisfying food and wine will love Tamam. On the narrow terraces tables of 2 or 4 can be arranged, inside the bath larger groups, so this will not be an overcrowded or noisy restaurant. Tamam deserves its popularity; it is wise to book ahead. There are plenty of reasonably priced options for both meat lovers and vegetarians alike. A truly sensual experience. We love Tamam!

Another authentic restaurant is To Dóloma, serving traditional Cretan food. The name means the bait and we are all poor fish to the hook of the tasty meals served here in a quiet back street in the Splantzia quarter of Chania. On Kapsokalyvon behind the Venetian Arsenals.

Nearby is the wonderful Kríti Kafé, where locals play Cretan music. The rhythms, the sounds of lyra and laouto and laughter ring out all year round. For musicians and for those interested in the real Crete, this café-bar is a must. Try the local tsikoudia white spirit, it will get you into the spirit of things and up enjoying Kritikó Xoró, Cretan dancing.

The market is a cross-shaped building still full of exotic goods and produce from around the island and around the world. It was opened by Elefthérios Venizélos on 4 December 1913. Today it is still an impressive building with a vibrant air of mingling cultures, herbs, spices, cheese, meats and fish.

Around Chania Town

Our friend Michael Lytas Levendakis has written about his favourite town; Chania. Catch up on some of the night spots and beaches of Chania.

The Old Port limani is the old Venetian port of Chania situated in the heart of Chania town. You can go there for tourist shopping and also for dinner. Take your camera at night as it is very attractive. Make sure you don’t go to the port of Souda Bay where all the big ferries go.

As you walk around the limani to the fishing port area, keep walking around the point through the streets to the east of the old Venetian stores and you will find a new area where all the locals go for coffee and food, right on the water (above). It is near an open air theatre where there are concerts in summer.

If you are staying in Chania town you will need to catch a bus to the better beaches which are between Chania and Kalamaki. The buses run every 15 minutes and I suggest you catch the Kalamaki or Panoroma bus (a blue coloured bus) to Kalamaki beach and then decide which one you prefer. We used to walk to Kalamaki beach but it’s too full so we walked east to the next beach called Glaros which we prefer. Keep walking east and there are more beaches up to Agio Apostolou. There are also beaches west of Kalamaki in the area called Agia Marina.

If you are staying in Platania you can catch the green buses every 15 minutes to Chania town. Keep in mind the taxi fares double after midnight and they switch off their meters, so you give them what you think the fare is worth before they say the price.

Accommodation in Chania Old Town

View Larger Map

Exploring around Chania - Daytrips

Ferries leave Agia Roumeli in the afternoon to be greeted by buses which then bring visitors back to Chania. This makes for one very, very long day and we would suggest staying in one of the relaxed and beautiful coastal towns, such as Sfakia, Loutro or Paleohora instead of rushing back. Make sure to book ahead in these smaller towns. Make sure to see our page about Samaria Gorge.

Exploring around Chaniá - Theriso

Theriso is a small Cretan village 18 kms form Chaniá town in the Lefka Ori mountains. Theriso has a remarkable history, intrinsically interwoven with the freedom and independence of the Cretan people.

Theriso village, with its dramatic mountain scenery and gorge, sits at 580m in the massive Lefka Ori or White Mountain range in the west of Crete.

The beautiful Theriso Gorge with its dramatic scenery, which can be seen from the road as it runs along the bed of the gorge for 6 kms, accompanying the tree-lined river and surrounded by the greenery of chestnuts and oaks. Of course the gorge also makes a wonderful walk in the clean mountain air, and is popular with rock climbers and hikers.

The famous politician and statesman, Eleftherios Venizelos, born in Mournies in Chaniá prefecture in 1864, started the Theriso Revolution of 1905 in the village of Theriso. The village was closed by mountains so was difficult to capture.

The Theriso Revolution of 1905 fought to unite the people of the island of Crete after 400 years of domination by the Ottomans, and subsequent outside rule by Prince George of Greece, sent by the Great Powers.

Finally in 1913 Crete became unified with Greece. Eleftherios Venizelos went on to become Prime Minister of Greece from 1910 to 1915.

Venizelos is one of the great heroes of Crete and Greece.

Venizelos no doubt chose Theriso as he was uniquely tied to the mountain people and this village, it being the village of his mother Stiliani Ploumidakis.

Today the house of his mother still stands in Theriso and has been preserved as a historical building.

The National Research Foundation of Eleftherios Venizelos has its offices in Chania town, and held a 100 year anniversary celebrations of the Theriso uprising in 2005.

Theriso 100 Years was an event that gathered together visitors from all over the island and the world between 3rd and 6th March 2005. Proceedings were opened by Anna Psarouda Benaki, the President of the Hellenic Parliament. A congress was held with the support of the Hellenic Parliament, The Prefecture of Chaniá and the Theriso District Council. Contributions were made by universities, historians and research specialists.

Theriso holds a special place in the hearts of all Cretans.

Getting to Crete; flights, ferries and more...

Getting around in Crete; buses, ferries, transfers

Return from Chania Town to We Love Crete Homepage